I try (and sometimes fail) to make this a funny blog. There’s enough tragedy in the world already. But I can’t even joke about how much I appreciate and respect the American military. My admiration is boundless, and my sister and I are the first generation in my direct line in a thousand years not to serve as an officer in either the English or American armed forces, which I kind of regret. Most served in various armies, and my father retired as an Army officer and became a civilian lawyer before I was born. But most of our family’s heart is with the Navy.
My grandfather went to Annapolis and then spent his career in the Navy, moving my father and two awesome aunts all over the world with him, and sometimes leaving them for extended stays at sea. Or Vietnam. My grandmother was/is a hero, wrangling three Knight children under the age of 8 from Pensacola to Boston in an un-air-conditioned car in summer, without my grandfather, on 45-mph, pre-interstate roads. She was not even 30. I am aware that it was not easy for any of them. But the Navy is woven into the fabric of my family, and my heart soars when I hear “Anchors Aweigh.” My grandmother says that the Navy sure has taken care of her in her old age. She still lives in Norfolk, by the way, where the Navy is woven into the fabric of every family.
But I had never been to a U.S. Naval base. My grandmother still goes to the commissary in Norfolk, but I never really knew what it was. This week, my American friend in Rome who is in the Navy reserves asked if I wanted to go to U.S. Navy base in Naples, Italy with him for an afternoon. He needed to buy some things at the exchange and commissary. I could go with him, he said, and buy all the American products I could handle at American prices, in dollars, tax free.
This is officially the easiest question I’ve ever had to answer.
So yesterday, this guy and I settled into his comfortable, American-made car (he has a car in Rome!!) along with my best friend Jennifer who is visiting, and we set the GPS for the U.S. Navy base in Naples.
The ride was uneventful. We stopped for coffee. We took a few wrong turns in Naples. Then, suddenly we were in America on the base. We showed lots of ID and got lots of clearance, and parked our cars in what looked just like a mall parking lot, with ample, wide spaces and rows of cars with Italian plates but American college bumper stickers. American flags waved. The grass was manicured. The garbage was in garbage cans. Toto, we weren’t in Italy anymore.
Inside: a mall. With all manner of shops, but they shops didn’t have names. For instance, instead of “Barnes & Noble,” there was “Book Store.” There was also “Jewelry Store” and “Wine Shop.” There were also services I’d kill for in Rome – like same day dry cleaning, international tax assistance, international cell phones, and a frame shop (ok I wouldn’t kill for that one, but I’ve never seen a frame shop in Rome).
And then the food court. Ok, y’all, I love America. You love America. But let’s just be honest. The way we eat is disgusting. I was very excited to eat Taco Bell and I enjoyed it thoroughly. But we just cannot digest this stuff, y’all!
Then, the zenith of my America-in-Naples experience: the commissary. A giant grocery store, with everything from giant, ‘Murica sized shampoo to whole turkeys to peanut butter to Cheetos to Mac-n-cheese to Big Red gum to Advil to red-white-and-blue party items to cranberry juice to Clorox bleach. And cereal – rows and rows of delicious sugary cereal. I can eat a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch, close my eyes, and I am 8 years old again, in Nashville, getting ready for school.
Food is home, y’all.
My friend Jennifer couldn’t believe my frenzy. Jennifer knows what its like to live in Italy for years without access to American products, but she’s a cook who easily finds the best ingredients possible in Italian grocery stores. I am a baker and need/want things like Pam, Bisquick, cupcake papers, sprinkles, more sprinkles, chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, baking soda, brown sugar (remember brown-sugar-gate at Thanksgiving), powdered sugar. I can’t get any of this stuff (a few things are available for a fortune at Castroni) in Italy. But we’re not in Italy! This is America in Italy, and not only can I get it, I can pay for it in cheap, glorious dollars.
Two-hundred-and-fifty dollars and two-and-a-half hours later, I was back in Rome with my bounty. In a moment of extreme nerdiness, I arranged my items on my stairs like jewels in a case, partially to take this photo for my blog, and partially so I could admire my loot one last time before I slowly begin to destroy it. And now, friends, I present to you: WHAT I BOUGHT AT THE NAPLES COMMISSARY:
And, after stuffing the items into corners of my kitchen that I never knew existed, I noticed the visual poetry in my freezer:
And not just food, y’all. See why I was so giddy about American toiletries?
Friends, I love Italian food. I can eat pizza three times a day and I wake up craving Nespresso. But I also need some Lucky Charms in my life. I need some Reese’s Cups in my life. For me, making my home (for any length of time) in another country is like this. I’ll never be Italian. I’m an American in Italy – I’m Liz In Rome.
Ha! We are doing the exact opposite and swearing off buying stuff from the US for two full months! Plus, I’d rather eat Italian.
Girrrrrl it’s been a year! I’d rather eat Italian too, for my actual meals… But for baking, this stuff is a must! And I’ve got a mountain of once-upon-a-time white clothes that NEED the Clorox! I didn’t buy anything for lunches and dinners. Thanks for reading!
I have a similar picture from a trip down there years ago.
We spent the night on the base!
I found the whole thing very disorienting and struggled to adjust back in Italy for a day or two when I came back to Rome 🙂
It was weird. Not just like being in America – it was actually like being specifically in TEXAS! Like those huge shopping centers in the Dallas suburbs with tons of parking and grassy patches, and no high-rises anywhere.
Oh.My.Gosh. My head just exploded with lust. I practically live for visits to Rome to get to Castroni… but this? It is amazing.
Finally, someone who understands me!!
I hope you found some reasonably priced cheddar cheese.
Danny – we had a long drive back so I didn’t want to get anything that had to be refrigerated. Otherwise, I would have gotten a whole turkey and frozen it until Thanksgiving!!! So, only preservative-filled, processed-sugary stuff this time.
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Your blog IS funny. The picture of the stairs stacked with American goodies is revelatory. I work at the Naples High School and we often forget how lucky we are to have easy access to American goods. Like you, I prefer the Italian food and economy shop BUT peanut butter, tabasco sauce, and Cheetos — absolute musts. Guilty pleasures. If you ever need in the commissary again, you got a friend here.
Hi Sandra! If I am coming through I will send you a note! My buddy who took me is now out of the military so I lost my hookup. It’s been a year and a half and I STILL have not gone through all of my cake mixes and sprinkles… but I am getting there. The Italian man in my life doesn’t know they exist and thinks I am a pastry chef.
Thanks so much for reading; I’m so flattered!! Please keep in touch!!